Design.pdf: Patternmaking For Underwear

Understanding how different elastics, laces, and knit fabrics behave is as crucial as the drafting techniques themselves.

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The central front frame must be stable (zero stretch) to anchor the bra against the sternum, while the wing (back band) requires high-power stretch fabric to distribute support evenly across the back. 4. Grainlines and Material Mapping

Her first real pattern—a high-waisted brief with a scalloped edge—fit like a whisper. Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf

This article explores the essential principles of lingerie drafting, the nuances of fabric stretch, and why mastering this craft is the ultimate "level up" for any designer. 1. The Anatomy of Intimate Apparel

Draw a vertical line equal to the rise depth minus your negative ease (typically 10-15%).

Human bodies have complex curves. Underwear patterns must utilize strategic seam placements, such as curved crotch lines and contoured waistbands, to prevent riding up or chafing. 2. Fabric Selection and Stretch Mechanics The central front frame must be stable (zero

If you are applying fold-over elastic (FOE), the pattern edge should have no allowance. If you are using a plush back elastic that rolls over to the inside, you must add an allowance exactly equal to the width of that elastic band. 6. Sourcing Patternmaking PDF Manuals and Resources

At the bottom of the center line, extend a horizontal line (D to E) to create the crotch width (typically 3 to 4 cm for half of the pattern).

Note the new measurement (e.g., if it stretches to 13 cm, it has a 30% stretch capacity). Calculating Negative Ease This article explores the essential principles of lingerie

Outerwear relies on "positive ease" to allow room for movement. Underwear patterns utilize "negative ease." This means the finished garment measurements are smaller than the actual body measurements, allowing the fabric to stretch and hug the form.

Before drafting, you must determine how much your fabric stretches. Cut a 10 cm square of your chosen fabric.